Dry hopping:
The technique of utilizing real hop leaves in the secondary
is known as “dry hopping.” This
procedure is typically done on more hoppy beers such as IPAs. People typically will want to do this when
they want to procure the aromas and flavors of a specific type of hope within
the beer they are creating. Typically,
hops are added during the boil to extract the alpha acids. These alpha acids vary from hop to hop and
they are what give your beer its bitterness.
However, it is not just what type of hop that you add that gives beer
its bitterness, but also when you add it that determines the amount of
bitterness you get as well as what flavor or aromas that your beer will
retain. Usually, brewers will use late
hop additions, within the last 5-15 minutes of the boil, to enhance both the
flavor and aroma of the beer being made.
Obviously with less hoppy beers such as Stouts, the additions of these
hops are limited if not eliminated.
However, with hoppy beers like IPAs, Pale Ales, etc. additions could go
beyond simply adding during the boil to adding hops to the secondary
vessel.
Overview of The
Process
The process of dry hopping is as simple as adding whole hops
or leaves to a bag and introducing them to the secondary or the keg. These hops when added do not produce any
bitterness to the beer, rather the introduction allows for the oils of aroma
and flavor specific to the hop to be more obvious in the final product. The result is a wonderfully, fresh hop note
to your beer. There are many commercial
breweries that utilize the addition of hops in the secondary; these include
Samuel Adams Pale Ale, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Schlafly TIPA, and many many
others.
Hop Selection
The primary consideration of which hops to use when
considering dry hopping your beer.
Typically, aromatic hops that are low in alpha acids (6% or under) are preferable,
but also the noble hops are ones to consider.
Here are some examples of hops typically used in dry hopping methodology,
they include: Saaz, Tettnanger, Cascade, Columbus, Williamette. However, other types can be utilized if you
are trying to go for a specific aroma or flavor. High alphas like Citra are not uncommon, but
are very high in alpha acids so the lack of aromatic oils might push one to add
more hops to the secondary to extract the exact aroma and flavor you’re looking
for.
The Methodology
When does one add the addition hops and how long should the
beer be exposed to the hops is a common dilemma for newbies to the procedure. Breweries have a choice between within the
secondary or the keg. In both regards,
utilize a mesh bag to make the process of separating the hops from the beer
easier. You do not necessarily need a
bag, but be cautious when siphoning or separting the beer later when kegging or
bottling. If one does decide to go with
dry hopping inside of the keg, the mesh bag here is no longer an option, but a
must (wouldn’t want a hop gumming up your keg line or keg would we). With
regards to which types of hops: pellets or leaf, both are preferable. Some argue that it is more challenging
getting the leaf in and out of the glass carboy with a narrow neck, but are equally
doable with regard to the aroma and flavors that will partake in the
process. There is an argument that
within the process of turning whole hops into pellet that some aroma and flavor
is lost, but I have never had/experienced a noticeable difference. Of course, pure “hop heads” would argue that
you should only use whole hops and much of them. That being said the amount is of personal
preference. Typically 1 to 2 oz is all
it takes for a period of a week or so.
Those that appreciate extreme hoppiness can go up to 4 or even 5 oz for
that burst of hop aroma. However, a week
maximum is all it really takes to impart the characteristics of the hop. If you decide to go within the keg, it has
been noted that a “grassy” flavor will become more and more apparent as the
beer sits (assuming you don’t finish your beer very quickly).
Ev
