Dry Hopping

Dry hopping:

The technique of utilizing real hop leaves in the secondary is known as “dry hopping.”  This procedure is typically done on more hoppy beers such as IPAs.  People typically will want to do this when they want to procure the aromas and flavors of a specific type of hope within the beer they are creating.  Typically, hops are added during the boil to extract the alpha acids.  These alpha acids vary from hop to hop and they are what give your beer its bitterness.  However, it is not just what type of hop that you add that gives beer its bitterness, but also when you add it that determines the amount of bitterness you get as well as what flavor or aromas that your beer will retain.  Usually, brewers will use late hop additions, within the last 5-15 minutes of the boil, to enhance both the flavor and aroma of the beer being made.  Obviously with less hoppy beers such as Stouts, the additions of these hops are limited if not eliminated.  However, with hoppy beers like IPAs, Pale Ales, etc. additions could go beyond simply adding during the boil to adding hops to the secondary vessel. 

Overview of The Process

The process of dry hopping is as simple as adding whole hops or leaves to a bag and introducing them to the secondary or the keg.  These hops when added do not produce any bitterness to the beer, rather the introduction allows for the oils of aroma and flavor specific to the hop to be more obvious in the final product.  The result is a wonderfully, fresh hop note to your beer.  There are many commercial breweries that utilize the addition of hops in the secondary; these include Samuel Adams Pale Ale, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Schlafly TIPA, and many many others. 

Hop Selection

The primary consideration of which hops to use when considering dry hopping your beer.   Typically, aromatic hops that are low in alpha acids (6% or under) are preferable, but also the noble hops are ones to consider.  Here are some examples of hops typically used in dry hopping methodology, they include: Saaz, Tettnanger, Cascade, Columbus, Williamette.  However, other types can be utilized if you are trying to go for a specific aroma or flavor.  High alphas like Citra are not uncommon, but are very high in alpha acids so the lack of aromatic oils might push one to add more hops to the secondary to extract the exact aroma and flavor you’re looking for.  

The Methodology

When does one add the addition hops and how long should the beer be exposed to the hops is a common dilemma for newbies to the procedure.  Breweries have a choice between within the secondary or the keg.  In both regards, utilize a mesh bag to make the process of separating the hops from the beer easier.  You do not necessarily need a bag, but be cautious when siphoning or separting the beer later when kegging or bottling.  If one does decide to go with dry hopping inside of the keg, the mesh bag here is no longer an option, but a must (wouldn’t want a hop gumming up your keg line or keg would we).   With regards to which types of hops: pellets or leaf, both are preferable.  Some argue that it is more challenging getting the leaf in and out of the glass carboy with a narrow neck, but are equally doable with regard to the aroma and flavors that will partake in the process.  There is an argument that within the process of turning whole hops into pellet that some aroma and flavor is lost, but I have never had/experienced a noticeable difference.  Of course, pure “hop heads” would argue that you should only use whole hops and much of them.  That being said the amount is of personal preference.  Typically 1 to 2 oz is all it takes for a period of a week or so.  Those that appreciate extreme hoppiness can go up to 4 or even 5 oz for that burst of hop aroma.  However, a week maximum is all it really takes to impart the characteristics of the hop.  If you decide to go within the keg, it has been noted that a “grassy” flavor will become more and more apparent as the beer sits (assuming you don’t finish your beer very quickly). 

Ev